I arrived in Hanoi in the wee hours of the morning. We were
a group of 17 people taking our master's and doctoral degree for community
development. It was a study tour with a mission to expose ourselves to the government
structure and poverty reduction paradigm of Vietnam. We were going to explore
three cities for this objective – Hanoi, Vie Tri and Ha Long.
Our first destination was Vie Tri City. As we were
traversing the road for a 50 minute trip from the capital to the province, I curiously
peeped at the window to see what Vietnam is.
The first thing that came into my mind was, “It feels like
I’m just in the Philippines” The roads particularly reminded me of Visayas
Avenue, NLEX and Bulacan, except for some French-inspired establishments. The
signage were all written in the local language, but to me, they seemed to have
simply resembled the signage of commercial complex or local stores existing in
just about every corner of the Philippine’s thoroughfares.
We finally reached Vie Tri City at around four o’clock in
the morning. As I stepped down from the coaster we were riding, my first
impression for the first 50 minutes I spent with the country suddenly changed.
Vietnam’s first shout out was its food. Nam, our local host,
gave us a loaf filled with basil and ham and some herbs. It was minty and
herby, and was very far from our sweet pandesal. The loaf tasted strange…but I
thought it was good. Local biscuits, local orange fruit, local beverages and
the local beer were also offered to us as our welcome food.
After several hours of sleep, the sun rose and the little
village we were staying at took its full beam after our eyes. And Vietnam
started to unfold itself unto me….
It was very, very,
interesting. It felt very local. Every artefact, every concept, every item, every
person, and just about everything shouts a proud, cherished, deeply held and
well preserved culture - a culture that is very much Asian but is unique only
to Vietnam. It was similar yet distinctive. It was familiar yet exclusive. It
was related but inimitable.
A morning at the laid back village of Vie Tri City |
almost all house doors look alike |
The modernization of Vietnam is unable to obscure its
heritage and tradition. Almost everyone was still wearing their traditional hat
and was riding traditional mode of transportation - a bicycle or
motorcycle. In the workplaces such as the farms and factories, most localities
are still wearing the Vietnamese traditional attire.
Locals on their way to the Five Temples |
The design of the houses was a blend of Buddhist and French
traditions. And I found it so remarkable because it was the most glaring
manifestation of how a present-day socialist regime works – they all look practically
the same - even the inside! And yes, even hotels in Ha Long are designed just
like houses…only it has more floors.
Ha Long Bay, which for me resembled our very own Roxas
Boulevard, was impressive. It depicted a very progressive city but was still
very laid back. There were also no
skyscrapers that gave me a relaxed feeling. Commercial establishments abound
but they all looked the same. Except for some very few buildings, nothing has
seemed to deviate from the Buddhist-French architecture.
Vietnam houses under construction. Should not be not more than 70sqm otherwise you pay the taxes. Even the inside look the same. The works of a modern-day socialist regime :) |
Establishments in Hanoi City. |
Hotels in Ha Long City. This is the backpackers' area |
Ha Long Bay |
Hanoi City though was quite the opposite of our Ha Long and
Viet Tri City experience. It was busy and noisy and was filled with tall
buildings. For me, it was basically like Manila. But just like Ha Long and Vie
Tri, the obvious progress, seen in infrastructure and a very busy local
economy, is unable to erase or outshine the vibrant heritage and culture of Vietnam.
Motorcycles scattered all over Hanoi |
Tourists in Hanoi. Still courtesy of Naty :) |
Hanoi City. Still courtesy of Naty |
For one, the famous tourist spots in Hanoi showcase Ho Chi
Minh, who is Vietnam’s cultural icon. In the museum where the wax image of Ho
Chi Minh lies, solemnity was imposed on the tourists. No one was allowed to
take pictures and silence was strictly observed.
Uncle Ho's House |
The Buddhist tradition, even in the city, remained to be unwavering
and continually celebrated. This can be seen in various temples in the city.
One tourist spot is the Temple of Literature. Luckily, our visit to the temple
coincided with the graduation of Vietnamese students. We found out then that
the temple symbolizes education, and with that, the students traditionally go
there during their graduation day. The graduates take pictorials inside the
temple (just like pre-nup pictorials as wedding tradition in the Philippines)
while they wear traditional attire. I find it amazing that the youth wear
traditional clothing in a milestone of their life. It gave me the impression
that nationalism is instilled in and are practiced by the younger generation –
something that is unfamiliar to the Philippines.
Temple of Literature |
Traditional Vietnamese attire worn by graduates |
Photo Ops of Graduates :) |
Buddhist charms sold inside the Temple of Literature |
Even the food in Vietnam is able to remain authentic amidst
this generation of fast food. It remained true to the genuine Vietnam taste –
minty, herby, spicy, less sugar, less salt, less meat. Now that it has
preserved it’s true authenticity, even the way it is eaten is also traditional
– it is a ritual, a process, a celebration. For me, the local food is a true
Vietnamese brand and has sustained its tradition because the locals themselves
fully patronize it.
Typical Vietnamese breakfast |
Authentic coffee. Very strong. :) |
Staple drink. It's refilled once the glass is empty. And the teas are bitter too. |
We were almost always on hot pot. |
Eating hot pots is a ritual. There is a proper way of putting the ingredients. |
Vietnamese delicacies
The Vietnamese brand holds true as well in the vast farm
fields I have seen on our way to Ha Long City. Even the farm highlighted
Vietnam’s strong Buddhist culture as the graves of their loved ones are planted
in the middle of the rice fields. Their loved ones serve as guidance and bring
economic prosperity to them. The farm fields were very striking too with their
lush green color and the practice of integrated farming. I have not seen
something like it in the Philippines. The farm fields were filled with various commodities
such as rice, vegetables, high-value crops, and even duck and fish ponds.
I wonder if Vietnam implements best practices in integrated organic farming
Graveyards in the middle of farm field
Back in the city, there were very few establishments that
are of foreign origin. But generally, everything sold or eaten is locally made.
It was said that the government’s thrust towards economic development is fully
supporting products made by Vietnamese. No wonder they are reaping the benefits
now – a burgeoning infrastructure, a large workforce and reduction in poverty.
There are also no homeless, no slums and no street children.
A PERSONAL REFLECTION....
A PERSONAL REFLECTION....
All these things I witnessed in Vietnam say one simple
thing. Vietnam supports its own; Vietnam patronizes its own; Vietnam loves its
own. The nationalism and patriotism among the citizenry are burning. They take
pride in who they are, and what their heritage is.
And perhaps, I believe, that this is one of the top reasons
why Vietnam has overtaken Philippines in terms of development – socially,
economically, environmentally. I never realized how westernized the Philippines
is until I visited Vietnam. Both the Philippines and Vietnam were colonized for
hundreds of decades, but I am amazed how Vietnam has kept its heritage while the Philippines has well-preserved our colonizers’ influence rather than our own.
I am not saying that being westernized is negative. What I
am trying to point out is that we are so patronizing of foreigners that we have
forgotten to sustain our own oriental heritage and appreciate our indigenous
roots.
The everyday Filipino/Filipina life is bombarded with foreign
influence – from the food we eat, the language we speak, the shows and movies we
watch, the music we listen to, the commercial establishments we see, the products we consume, the
holidays we celebrate, the religion we subscribe to, the clothes we wear.
It is very common as well that we Filipinos/Filipinas prefer foreign
over our own. Like in how we view products, we tend to have the mentality that
“Lokal ito kaya mabilis masira,” or “Mas maganda yun kasi imported.” We are
inclined to give high regard to products made by foreigners as compared to
ours.
This is also true on how we perceive our country. It is a
common regular experience that almost all of us aspire to work or migrate
abroad. Although the reasons may be very valid, there is one glaring fact that
surfaces. We see a better life or opportunity in a foreign land, not in ours.
Unlike the Vietnamese who are still in their truest organic
form, the identity we Filipinos have is always a blend of various cultures. Our
indigenous peoples in the mountains, the true origin of our Filipino race, are
regarded as uncivilized, and are most often marginalized instead of being acclaimed or credited as they remained untouched by foreign colonizers. Right now, the standard of being
a mainstream citizen of the Philippines is to be modern and western, or otherwise be tagged as “probinsyano”, “jologs”, “lahing katutubo” or
simply uncool.
A five day stay in Vietnam is not enough to truly understand
the factors of its progress, but my stand is that - if we Filipinos and Filipinas will only
believe in our own, then we will rise to development just like the Vietnamese. Having
a carefully crafted strategy in leading a country is one thing, but what is
essential is the participation of the citizenry to make the vision of
development a possibility. I believe that this participation will emulate from
nationalism and patriotism, just like the Vietnamese.
Maybe we can blame the corruption in the government for the
hopelessness of this country. But maybe even how corrupt the government is, it
would paint a different picture if all the skilled workers are serving our
motherland rather than other countries; if we support our local products
instead of patronizing foreign ones; if we try to recognize our organic
potentials than looking elsewhere; if we Filipinos will try to build on and
maximize what is endemic instead of imitating our foreign counterparts. I
firmly believe that what makes Vietnam now is its deeply rooted patriotism. I
hope we too, someday, will be able to internalize our true love for our
motherland...and this can make anything happen.
This experience in Vietnam gave me a lot of realization, but regardless if these realizations are good or not, one thing is for sure...I get to appreciate and love our country more. This trip triggered as well my interest in oriental culture.
Asian is beautiful. Vietnam is beautiful. The Philippines is beautiful.
Asian is beautiful. Vietnam is beautiful. The Philippines is beautiful.
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